While first pregnant with my son, I suffered from the usual morning sickness. The only food that ever sounded appealing to me was baked goods — especially those with a sweet and tart flavor; indulgent but not too rich. Inspired by the size of the embryo (only as large as a poppy seed!), I made these lemon-y, pillowy rolls and nibbled them all throughout the day. They are a great warm-weather spin on traditional cinnamon rolls that would be perfect for a late morning brunch on a breezy porch.

3/4 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup water

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

1 large egg yolk

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/4 -ounce instant yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)

3/4 teaspoon salt

2 lemons, zest and juice

3 tablespoons poppy seeds

2 cups confectioners’ sugar

Preheat oven to 150*F and butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

Heat the buttermilk, water, ¼ cup sugar, and 4 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until the butter is melted and sugar dissolved and it registers between 100-110*F. Pour the warm buttermilk mixture into a large bowl and whisk until combined. Whisk in the eggs yolks and vanilla. Pour the flour over top. Place the yeast into one corner of the flour, and the salt into another. Mix with a wooden spoon until combined and beings to form a shaggy dough, then turn the dough out onto a flour surface and knead until soft and elastic, about 6 minutes. Loosely shape the dough into a ball, and transfer it to a large bowl sprayed with nonstick spray. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise 30 minutes on the counter.

While the dough rests, make the lemon sugar. Add the lemon zest to the remaining 3/4 cup of sugar, and rub it between your fingers to release the oils into the sugar. Set aside.

Transfer the dough to a floured surface and roll out to a 10-by-18-inch rectangle. Spread the remaining softened butter filling over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on one of the long sides. Sprinkle the lemon sugar and poppy seeds evenly over top. Brush the clean border with water, then tightly roll the dough into a long log. Pinch the seam.

Cut into 1 ½-inch rolls, using a piece of unflavored dental floss. Arrange the rolls, swirl side up, in the prepared baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the oven. Turn the oven off, crack open the door, and let the buns proof for 30 minutes. Close the oven door, and let them continue to rise for 30-40 more minutes, until doubled in size.

Remove rolls from the “proof box” oven, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Uncover the rolls and bake until light golden brown and spring back when pressed, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes in the pan.

While they are cooling, make the glaze. Whisk together the lemon juice and confectioners’ sugar, adjusting the consistency if needed. Drizzle the glaze over top.

Yield: 12 rolls

Poppy Seed Bun (In The Oven)